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Post by Kahn on Dec 14, 2016 17:41:44 GMT -6
I know, I know....this has been discussed and done and not done hundreds of times over. But what I found interesting from a human point of view is the sheer number of people who refuse....REFUSE...to believe that a resistor soldered in there actually works. I've seen people spending hundreds of dollars and endless time on putting these mapped FI Controllers in under the gastank. Ah well, there are folks like that but my meanie never starves for fuel and pulls incredibly hard to redline.
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Post by lee on Dec 14, 2016 17:57:05 GMT -6
I've found it runs as well without a map anyway. At least when it's running
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B46
New Member
Posts: 22
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Post by B46 on Dec 14, 2016 18:34:26 GMT -6
I know, I know....this has been discussed and done and not done hundreds of times over. But what I found interesting from a human point of view is the sheer number of people who refuse....REFUSE...to believe that a resistor soldered in there actually works. I've seen people spending hundreds of dollars and endless time on putting these mapped FI Controllers in under the gastank. Ah well, there are folks like that but my meanie never starves for fuel and pulls incredibly hard to redline. Hey Kahn, Just out of curiosity, what ohm resistor did you use? And did your mileage drop much? I like more power, but I would like to keep the range that I have now - somewhere in the 130 to 150 mile range. I think. Thanks!
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Post by Kahn on Dec 15, 2016 0:38:46 GMT -6
I was surprised. I believe I used the tutorial author's recommendation which if memory serves was a .6 ohm resistor. Frankly B46 I didn't notice much if any drop-off after the mod. I'm still averaging per tank about what I was before. Maybe just a hair lower.
Here's a tip for filling a Meanies gas tank I got from a guy on the ridersforum site. Fill the tank until the fuel shut off comes on. Then straddle the bike. hold it upright and slowly start putting more fuel into it. You'll be amazed at how much mo0re gas you can get in there by slowly rocking it back and forth while slowly filling with gas. Once I started doing that my fuel range to empty shot up around 160-180.
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Post by hagger on Dec 15, 2016 8:19:26 GMT -6
Only do that if your headed out to ride, if your headed home to park it the tank will spit some out onto your floor through the vent from the expansion
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Post by Kahn on Dec 15, 2016 11:38:08 GMT -6
Hagger, you are absolutely correct and I forgot to mention that. I can squeeze in almost 2 gallons more using the method but you want to make SURE you put at least 10 miles or so on the bike before you park it. Otherwise you will be wondering where the smell of gas is coming from!
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Post by hagger on Dec 15, 2016 18:32:44 GMT -6
I found that out the hard way lol
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Post by Kahn on Dec 15, 2016 19:50:32 GMT -6
LMAO! You and me both.
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Post by ravenred on Dec 27, 2016 15:44:35 GMT -6
To show my ignorance here, the size of the resistor would vary depending upon the climate the person lives, correct? I went to my local radio shack and all they had available were 480 and 1k resistors, all 1/4 volt. Since I live in a low altitude, generally hot climate with moderate humidity should I just double up the 480 or go for the 1k? I am just wanting to avoid causing any issues even though I will be pulling the plugs and checking regularly.
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Post by hagger on Dec 27, 2016 16:24:06 GMT -6
Many have run without a module or putting in a resister and have had no issues. I would bet and do think these bikes came from the factory running on the rich side using the catalytic converter to pass emissions. I dont think your going to be lean. My EJK 3.5 module is pretty much on the stock settings and runs fine and plugs look good.
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 17:18:46 GMT -6
you can safely run without a processor , but the lower the altitude the more fuel you need. if you have removed all the smog crap and have pipes with the open air cleaner the scoot will run a little fatter than it did with all the smog crap on it. There is no doubt a fuel processor like the ejk 3.5 or the pc3 will make the scoot perform better. Some throttle positions you need to remove fuel and some you need to add, so the controller is the best way to go. Try it without anything first, see how the plugs look. You will not really be looking at the ground strap on the plugs, you want to look at the ring where the strap is welded on. If its dark all the way around you are on the fat side, you don't want it tan or light tan. if its nice and clean but turning dark in color your good. reading plugs is tough, but it will give a good idea where your at. I like the engine to be pretty fat at idle, and also under 2k rpm, and fat on the top wot . if you are running on the highway, come down an exit ramp, stop and the idle does not want come down, then you are lean in the cruising range you were at. it should come down to idle quickly. if you are idling, burp the throttle and it takes a while to come back down, same it true , lean. if you are a little fat at idle and on the bottom you will have better throttle response. Tuning by ear and seat of pants take a lot of effort and time though. I have seen guys go to the dyno man, he sets it up to what he thinks is the best A/F ratio only to have the guy tell me hey this thing feels flat or stumbles etc. not saying I am a super tuner, but been there done that lol. rather run a little fat than lean. At cruise I like around 13.3-.5:1, wot 12.8-13:1, idle 11.9-12.3:1, but this is just what my engines like. If a dyno guy says you need to be 14.7:1 he is reading too much!!lol I have seen at cruise 15:1 but this is only in a very narrow window for fuel mileage . with the pc3 you can adjust all throttle position at all rpms but takes a lot of time and really isn't worth the hassle.
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Post by hagger on Dec 27, 2016 17:23:45 GMT -6
This is the only time in life where its better to be fat than lean LOL
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Post by Kahn on Dec 27, 2016 17:25:31 GMT -6
To show my ignorance here, the size of the resistor would vary depending upon the climate the person lives, correct? I went to my local radio shack and all they had available were 480 and 1k resistors, all 1/4 volt. Since I live in a low altitude, generally hot climate with moderate humidity should I just double up the 480 or go for the 1k? I am just wanting to avoid causing any issues even though I will be pulling the plugs and checking regularly. Red, I carefully went through every section of the Caddman mod tutorial and both of the gentlemen who appeared to have in-depth knowledge of both FI and non-FI vulcan engines strongly urge either the resistor or a FI controller. I wanted to err on the side of people who had far more knowledge of this than I, so I went to Amazon and ordered the exact same 680 ohm resistpr the Author soldered into his Meanie. Here's the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVZ4508/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1The Author had been driving his Meanie for over 6 years with just the Caddman mod as described with zero problems. Hagger, you might be absolutely correct, but I just wasn't going to take any chances they were wrong.
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Post by hagger on Dec 27, 2016 17:29:04 GMT -6
I also hate taking chances and I put in a module so if needed I could adjust but have never needed to but I dont play with mine as much as some do. Better safe than sorry I say.
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 17:30:42 GMT -6
This is the only time in life where its better to be fat than lean LOL I like a little meat lol
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Post by hagger on Dec 27, 2016 17:34:03 GMT -6
Me too but it should be on my plate, thats most likely why I'm fat lol
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Post by ravenred on Dec 27, 2016 19:11:40 GMT -6
I was under the impression they ran lean from the factory, I may have misunderstood the information I was reading at the time though. I think I will order the 680 and put it in to be on the safe side. At this stage in life I want the power but really just want to set it up and ride it once it's all dialed in, I don't have near the time to toy around that I used to before kids.
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Post by ravenred on Dec 27, 2016 19:23:39 GMT -6
I used to tune my small block chevy V8s by ear but those old cast iron blocks are hard to kill. I'm a little more concerned with getting it just right here since I intend on keeping this bike for a long while.
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 19:39:56 GMT -6
I was under the impression they ran lean from the factory, I may have misunderstood the information I was reading at the time though. I think I will order the 680 and put it in to be on the safe side. At this stage in life I want the power but really just want to set it up and ride it once it's all dialed in, I don't have near the time to toy around that I used to before kids. You are correct on running lean from the factory! This is why. The hotter the air entering the TB and past the ias, the leaner it is. The hotter the coolant, the leaner it is. So in factory untouched state, the incoming air into to intake is pulled from behind the left dog bowl off the hot engine, through the plastic piping sandwich between the two hot cylinders. This leans it out, also the rear cylinder does not get as much air to help cool it, so coolant Temps are higher. So you remove all that trash, put an open or any aftermarket air cleaner on the right side, you have cooler air into the engine and past the ias, also now you have better cooling to the rear cylinder, lower coolant temperature, richer mixture.
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Post by ravenred on Dec 27, 2016 19:57:19 GMT -6
That is what I needed to know, thanks everyone for the information!
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Post by Kahn on Dec 27, 2016 20:38:26 GMT -6
That is what I needed to know, thanks everyone for the information! The proof of the pudding for me was a serious blast out and about after the pipes and Caddman went on. The pipes had gone on first and I did take a few rides noticing that she seemed more responsive. After Caddman, however, she gave me a new level of respect for what she could do. The power increase was fairly dramatic and she starts, idles and screams up to redline with no problems at all. However, all that has accomplished is make me want even more power. It's like an addiction. Then I met Jimmy Tinknocker and started buying trinkets galore. God Save Me!
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 21:12:08 GMT -6
Here is the original maker of the reed valve block off plates, cam chain adjuster extensions, and intake that bad ace model his after with a minor change chucksterscustoms.com/
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Post by ravenred on Dec 27, 2016 21:15:26 GMT -6
At what point do the cam chain adjuster extensions become necessary?
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 21:17:44 GMT -6
At what point do the cam chain adjuster extensions become necessary? Right now.
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 21:21:32 GMT -6
At what point do the cam chain adjuster extensions become necessary? If I put new chains, guides, I still use the extenders
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Post by ravenred on Dec 27, 2016 21:25:19 GMT -6
I'm going to end up poor talking to y'all! Now I'm seeing all the things I can do to this bike and the costs are adding up!😀
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Post by Kahn on Dec 27, 2016 21:26:17 GMT -6
At what point do the cam chain adjuster extensions become necessary? If I put new chains, guides, I still use the extenders I was under the impression that a fairly stock Vulcan twin could go up to around 20K before the adjusters were needed. No?
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Post by Admin on Dec 27, 2016 21:31:11 GMT -6
If I put new chains, guides, I still use the extenders I was under the impression that a fairly stock Vulcan twin could go up to around 20K before the adjusters were needed. No? This is true, but when you need or I should say hear the chains, your out of adjustment. There is two problems with the adjusters. Explain in the morning
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Post by TTE on Dec 29, 2016 9:19:51 GMT -6
This is the only time in life where its better to be fat than lean LOL Heyyyy .................. I resemble that remark !
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Post by TTE on Dec 29, 2016 9:27:50 GMT -6
I'm going to end up poor talking to y'all! Now I'm seeing all the things I can do to this bike and the costs are adding up!😀 If you plan on keeping the bike, put the tensioners in. Won't hurt a thing even if they are not needed. They are not expensive and even I could put them in (and did). If not put in, one day you will be changing the oil and you will find metal chunks in the oil screen. You'll freak out (like everyone when they see metal chunks in their oil system, then you'll be pulling the spark plug tubes to see if they are warn through), then you will need to find them, they won't be at your house the next day and you'll have a ride planned for the day after. Get them now, and the next time you change your oil, put em' in.
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