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Post by Lagger on May 3, 2017 9:48:45 GMT -6
Well, here's a question, according to the Clymer manual, the steering stem lock nut should be torqued to 43 in lb. How do you guys do that? Do you use a special 4 slot socket or do you guestimate it? The Clymer manual refers to "special tool" which is a common or garden C-Spanner - how do you torque with that? I'm tempted to set it so that the steering will move smoothly under it's own weight and not worry about torque settings.
Or is there a tried and tested Hillbilly method?
Thanks
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Post by hagger on May 3, 2017 10:50:10 GMT -6
They just have to have some preload on the bearings similar to front wheel bearing. I use a hammer and a drift when I dont have the right socket but key here is a little preload and no play in the bearings and not so much preload as to cause handle bars to drag when moving. With bike in air turn the handle bars to one side and they should move freely and almost bounce off the stop but still have no play or looseness when moving the tire forward and back. Hope this makes sense.
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Post by lee on May 3, 2017 11:39:24 GMT -6
I've done the hammer-and-drift thing also. Well, technically a screwdriver... If you have a spanner that fits you could use a fish or luggage scale to torque it would seem awkward to me. Fortunately 43 in-lb isn't much.
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Post by Lagger on May 3, 2017 12:26:59 GMT -6
Thanks guys, some good suggestions there. Somewhere I've got a c spanner kicking around so I'll make use of that rather than spending more cash on a socket. hagger: "With bike in air turn the handle bars to one side and they should move freely and almost bounce off the stop but still have no play or looseness when moving the tire forward and back. Hope this makes sense." that's exactly what I was contemplating doing! Cheers
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