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Post by lee on Dec 27, 2016 13:24:55 GMT -6
Based on a garage straightedge the cylinder and head surfaces seem good.
As for timing... it's not complicated but kind of a pain (remember just turning the distributor on a car?) The camshafts were right, F in front R in rear. This I know since that's how they came off.
With the "F" mark in the little timing window you set the front camshaft so the two hash marks are even with the head surface with the "F" in the front (in other words, right-side up). Then you rotate the engine forward until the "R" mark is in the window and do the same for the rear.
I'm going out to put on the rocker boxes and torque it all down in a few minutes. That should retard the timing a little as the chain effectively gets longer so I'll check it with a square afterward. Notice the other "F" mark, that should be right at the top also when it's right.
Still going to replace the water pump seal anyway. My inclination is that the rear head gasket wasn't sealed well for some reason. I wish I could have seen something obviously wrong with it, but based on the cruddiness of the rear piston & cylinder that's my current working theory.
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Post by hagger on Dec 27, 2016 13:41:06 GMT -6
Hope it works this time Lee
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Post by lee on Dec 27, 2016 17:30:34 GMT -6
Me, too. Got the engine back together and in, waiting on the water pump seal before I try it out. I'd probably try it anyway except I broke the plastic washer in the WP yesterday, so I'll just replace the seal. Oh, and in case anyone's forgotten what started this little adventure a few weeks ago... Found a few of these in the oil screen, and fished around in there with a magnet until I didn't get any more. Still think there must be some left. These are teeth from my torque limiter that got ground off. That's what prompted me to jump into the whole job a little before I'd planned. I think I'm going to buy one of those magnetic oil plugs, sound like a good idea? Seems like it can't hurt. Attachments:
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Post by lee on Dec 27, 2016 18:33:26 GMT -6
Oh, and of course I very carefully timed this thing before putting the cam journals in.... Let the record show: Here are the final timing positions, recorded for posterity. (Just trust me that the timing marks on the flywheel are lined up correctly as in the previous pics.)
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Post by Kahn on Dec 27, 2016 18:57:51 GMT -6
Oh, and of course I very carefully timed this thing before putting the cam journals in.... Let the record show: Here are the final timing positions, recorded for posterity. (Just trust me that the timing marks on the flywheel are lined up correctly as in the previous pics.) Lee, we are ready to believe you!
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Post by lee on Jan 3, 2017 10:19:01 GMT -6
Well, a bit of a delay. Ordered a new water pump mechanical seal. Pulled the impeller Christmas weekend to look, and I don't see any need for a new one. Condition looks good and no coolant in the weep hole (which isn't blocked) or in or around the seal as far as I can tell.
Unfortunately I broke a little plastic washer/seal putting the impeller back on. No problem, I have a whole new seal coming..... But just this weekend I found that that part is part of the impeller, not the mech. seal. D'oh! Now I have to order an impeller.
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Post by Kahn on Jan 3, 2017 12:04:26 GMT -6
Damn...It's Always something
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Post by Admin on Jan 3, 2017 13:55:03 GMT -6
Well, a bit of a delay. Ordered a new water pump mechanical seal. Pulled the impeller Christmas weekend to look, and I don't see any need for a new one. Condition looks good and no coolant in the weep hole (which isn't blocked) or in or around the seal as far as I can tell. Unfortunately I broke a little plastic washer/seal putting the impeller back on. No problem, I have a whole new seal coming..... But just this weekend I found that that part is part of the impeller, not the mech. seal. D'oh! Now I have to order an impeller. you must be my brother from another mother that's my luck most of the time!!
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Post by Texas on Jan 3, 2017 16:49:59 GMT -6
Damn...It's Always something Seems like it sometimes. Ever had one of those days where you come to realize the more ya do, the more you're going to have to re-do the next day. At least this deal is 'eventually' solvable, unlike trying to make women happy.
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Post by Kahn on Jan 3, 2017 17:29:45 GMT -6
Damn...It's Always something Seems like it sometimes. Ever had one of those days where you come to realize the more ya do, the more you're going to have to re-do the next day. At least this deal is 'eventually' solvable, unlike trying to make women happy. LMAO! I tried for over 30 years to make one woman happy. Then I realized I'd rather be riding. Some day this damned divorce is going to be final! Happiness is fleeting. A good Bike is for however long you choose to ride it.
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Post by lee on Jan 8, 2017 18:03:14 GMT -6
Progress... First of all, it turns out the particular washer-type piece that I needed IS part of the mechanical seal, not the impeller. Turns out I actually got both the seal (ordered from Partzilla about 10 days ago) and the impeller (ordered from the local shop last Tuesday) today. Oh, well, I just replaced the impeller since I had a new one now. Getting the mech seal out is a PITA. I don't know how you're supposed to do it without scratching up the surface since the manual says to loosen the flange with a chisel. I think the important surface is inside where there's an adhesive that comes on the new seal (the blue part). The manual says to use a 28mm socket to drive the seal in, I found that 27mm seems to fit perfectly but was still nervous about tapping it in with metal and bending it or something. Figured PVC would be a bit safer, don't know for sure, but a 3/4" pipe coupling fit perfectly. Tapped it in with a dead-blow mallet (same as I used to chisel the old seal out). Got it running, kept it at about 2k RPM until the fan came on and shut it off. I'll do the same thing a couple more times then take'r out for some test runs. plus.google.com/113736821984714034730/posts/gjAgeNu3Zu3?sfc=trueAttachments:
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Post by Admin on Jan 8, 2017 19:51:39 GMT -6
good deal Lee. Your killing though starting without exh lol
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Post by lee on Jan 8, 2017 20:26:08 GMT -6
Yeah, I just ran it for a couple of minutes without exhaust or filter. Wanted to see if I'd have to pull it out again before hassling the pipes.... On that note, a PSA: Be sure to tighten the thermostat bleeder bolt before starting the bike LOL. Had to pull the tank to find where all the coolant was coming from (you can see it in the first vid). And THAT's why I don't button it all up and hope it works! As of now the pipes & air filter are back on and I've run it up to temp a couple of times. I plan to do that at least once more and then get it out on the streets, but expect that to be next weekend.
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Post by lee on Jan 8, 2017 20:27:21 GMT -6
Oh, yea, just remembered, also forgot the breather hose. Probably explains that oily smell LOL. Was putting the left floorboard on when the fan came on and got a facefull of it.
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Post by TTE on Jan 9, 2017 8:07:13 GMT -6
Way to go Lee !
I think anyone needing a rebuild should send you their motor.
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Post by hagger on Jan 9, 2017 8:34:28 GMT -6
Glad to see ya got it going Lee.
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Post by lee on Jan 9, 2017 15:22:06 GMT -6
Way to go Lee ! I think anyone needing a rebuild should send you their motor. For what, demolition? LOL. The proof will be this weekend, weather permitting, I want to get it out there and work through the first few hundred miles. The second warmup yesterday seemed to settle down and run pretty steady, so I'm hopeful. Fun fact, since I've never had occasion to notice before: When the bike is running and upright virtually all of the oil disappears from the sight glass. There's just a little circulation visible. Thought that was kind of interesting.
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Post by TTE on Jan 9, 2017 18:23:10 GMT -6
Way to go Lee ! I think anyone needing a rebuild should send you their motor. For what, demolition? LOL. The proof will be this weekend, weather permitting, I want to get it out there and work through the first few hundred miles. The second warmup yesterday seemed to settle down and run pretty steady, so I'm hopeful. Fun fact, since I've never had occasion to notice before: When the bike is running and upright virtually all of the oil disappears from the sight glass. There's just a little circulation visible. Thought that was kind of interesting. Didn't sound like demolition to me ! Yes, I noticed the sight glass being empty when running. I thought that was 'different' also.
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Post by Kahn on Jan 9, 2017 18:40:20 GMT -6
Way to go Lee ! I think anyone needing a rebuild should send you their motor. For what, demolition? LOL. The proof will be this weekend, weather permitting, I want to get it out there and work through the first few hundred miles. The second warmup yesterday seemed to settle down and run pretty steady, so I'm hopeful. Fun fact, since I've never had occasion to notice before: When the bike is running and upright virtually all of the oil disappears from the sight glass. There's just a little circulation visible. Thought that was kind of interesting. Great to see the Beast operating once more! Everyone knew you could do it, but I took the under and lost (LOL)!
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Post by lee on Jan 14, 2017 16:28:15 GMT -6
Back on the road, took her out for a quick spin today. Need to check for exhaust leaks, the sound isn't quite right but it may settle down. I ran a couple of heat cycles a couple of weekends ago and again today before taking off. Only went about 15 miles, due to the oil contamination I brought her back and changed oil again just to get more of the coolant out. Also found pieces of teeth from the torque converter in the oil screen area, and the usual post-rebuild gunk in the screen. And you know what was stuck to my new, fancy, gold-tipped magnetic oil plug? Assembly lube, LOL.
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Post by TTE on Jan 14, 2017 18:15:16 GMT -6
Cool ! Nothing but good reports from now on. Don't make me come back to SoCal
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Post by lee on Jan 14, 2017 20:06:39 GMT -6
Cool ! Nothing but good reports from now on. Don't make me come back to SoCal LOL, what do you think has been my plan all along...
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Post by lee on Jan 16, 2017 16:12:29 GMT -6
Well, coolant is still getting into the oil, I can tell because the sight glass is now full, and there's again that glow from the coolant dye. I'll have to think about whether I'm going to tear into it again.
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Post by Kahn on Jan 16, 2017 16:46:14 GMT -6
Well, coolant is still getting into the oil, I can tell because the sight glass is now full, and there's again that glow from the coolant dye. I'll have to think about whether I'm going to tear into it again. Damn Lee, that's beyond disappointing. Sorry to hear that.
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Post by TTE on Jan 16, 2017 17:17:35 GMT -6
What the ..... ?
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Post by Texas on Jan 16, 2017 17:27:40 GMT -6
Dang, what a punch in the gut for a job well done. Wish I had some words of wisdom but I don't.
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Post by hagger on Jan 16, 2017 17:33:50 GMT -6
Damn Lee sorry for the bad luck there. Do the cylinder heads have coolant flowing through them. I dont remember but that's about the last place it could be from.
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Post by lee on Jan 16, 2017 17:48:29 GMT -6
Thanks, all. Yes, the coolant flows through the heads through the head gaskets into the cylinders, then out a single port at the bottom of each cylinder. I'm thinking at this point that there might have to be some head or cylinder warpage or crack that I just can't see.
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Post by hagger on Jan 16, 2017 18:32:10 GMT -6
Are you fouling any of the spark plugs or are they getting wet but not from fuel? If so I would be checking that head, sounds like a cracked cylinder head at this point. Cylinder heads can be pressure tested if the machine shop has the right tools, not sure about bike engines but it is common for aluminum heads to be cracked if the engine has been overheated and blown the head gaskets.
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Post by lee on Jan 16, 2017 18:41:18 GMT -6
It is kind of strange, the plugs this time appear dry and, if anything, maybe a bit lean. Nothing like how they appeared last time. Also the running seems a bit rough under load when accelerating, but feels great once up to speed. Kind of the opposite of how it felt before.
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